Here are some comments/info for building the model.

General Build

Since the model is built up from formers and stringers its very important to use set squares and a proper flat building board.

Where the ends leave the board it is crucial to add support at the right level under the main spars.

I used PVA glue for most structural joints, quick setting epoxy for crucial load bearing joints, and medium thick superglue for more cosmetic joints - like the thin stringers that give the plane its form. Note the cling film over the plan to stop the bits gluing to it.

Because I was adding more weight to the wing by making a retracting undercarriage and ailerons, I glued a thin strip of carbon fibre (see below) down the whole of the main wing spar from tip to tip to help take the extra load.

Control Systems

Once most of the framework is finished, the electronics and control systems need to be built in. In fact, since it isn't in the plan, you have to think carefully where everything is going to go, and don't close the frame completely until its all fixed in.

I built the plane in modules: the tail fin, stabiliser, fuselage, the two wing pieces, and the nacelles with all the landing gear and motors in.

The fin and stabiliser were covered and the snakes were attached. I then lightly joined these and the other modules together with pins and dabs of superglue, so that I could place the servos, battery, wires and receiver in position, to get an idea of the correct balance. Its important to finish most of the tail as the moment caused by the tail's mass is quite high, and even a small amount of weight added later makes a big difference.

Where possible alterations or access to electrics are needed I build small hatches from 1/32 ply, holding them in place with tiny servo screws, which have a big head area.

Tissue Covering

Covering was done by first lightly doping the whole frame with 50% dope and thinners, and then gently sanding. Its very important to do this carefully, otherwise the stringers won't have straight edges, and the final covering won't sit well on them, showing up any uneven areas. The point of this is to seal the balsa, and to make it smooth.

The model frame then should be pinned down tightly to the board, with pieces of balsa put in place to support the whole structure. This is vital to ensure that when the tissue is shrunk, it doesn't twist the frame. Although washout is built into the plan, I used this opportunity to make sure that it was present in the wing tips. Washout is a deliberate twist in both wing panels such that the tips have a lower angle of attack than the root. Thus, when the center section of the wing stalls, the tips are still lifting and the airplane's nose falls straight ahead. The Mosquito model is famous for tip stalling, and this model actually has a slightly larger wing area to compensate. Nevertheless you need washout, so I made sure the tissue shrinking process supported it.

Tissue paper was attached to the frame by using 50% watered down PVA glue painted on with a brush. The tissue was gently stretched over the frame until reasonably kink free. Once dry, more thinned down PVA was painted over any places where the tissue wasn't stuck. After waiting for it to dry again, one coat of 100% dope was painted over the tissue, which stretched tight.